Monday 6 August 2012

Tour of Krakow

A few months ago friends Johnathan, Ewelina and I went to Krakow to have a look around for a weekend. They knew the city but this was my first experience with Poland and what used to be behind the iron curtain. We went in late winter so it wasn't exactly warm but still very busy with visitors. They definitely have the welcome mat out for tourists but it hasn't ruined the feel of the city...yet.
Couldn't sleep so took pictures.



  We took an over night train from Berlin. The trains are crazy cheap but slow and basic (unless you pay more:). Still, no problem if you have a sleeper ticket. On the return trip there was no chance for sleep as the old guy in the middle bunk snored like a buzz saw. We passed many cities and towns with a distinct industrial past coating everything. Krakow has this patina as well but its slowly being washed off.


Rather eerie ad that slooowly appeared through the frost as the train crawled out of this station.

Terry Gilliam could have shot from our Hostel window for Barron Munchhausen.
  We got a room to share at a local hostel, Momotown and were presented with the keys to an apartment divided up into 3 rooms with a private bath and only shared a kitchen. 10 Euro a night! Its in the Jewish quarter which is a great area. Lots to see and explore, good places to eat and drink etc.

The city castle, Wawel Royal Castle

Much of the city centre is classic old Europe with the castle and city walls at the heart never far from a river. Walking through the narrow streets is great, so much old stone architecture, so many little courtyards hidden behind worn wooden doors. And of course the central square, the traditional home of the market.


Courtyard of the castle.

Drain pipes from the Cathedral within the castle walls.

  As usual, I make a point of avoiding the western chain shops and going for something local. We of course tried the traditional Polish Milk Bar for lunch on Saturday, very good, filled us up and for about 3 Euro each. On Sunday we found an amazing place for lunch, an old restaurant called "Gospoda Koko" on Gotebia street, just south of the main square.

It may not look too fancy but the taste is amazing.
  I forget what it was called but it was some kind of soup with potatoes and smoked pork. Simple is good.

  It WILL be busy. The two dining rooms upstairs were full so we had to go down to the cellar. For me this is great but the down side is you have to pick up your order and bring it down IF you sit THERE. The stairs are old rounded stone and you have to turn 180 as you go. Doing this while holding a hot plate of soup sloshing close to the fingers is enough to wake you from any afternoon lull.

 Next door to our Hostel was a good restaurant called "Ariel". Its classic Jewish food. Good but a bit pricey, worth a try but I'd rather go back to the Koko place.

 On the main square is a cafe called Castor Coffee. I think it might be the polish version of Starbuck$ but despite that its really good. Chai late with a shot of espresso, nice change. The logo has what looks like a Beaver in it so the Canadian in me approved.

  I'd like to try Warsaw next I think, I hear its the next Berlin:)